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Uganda
131 photos
The source of the Nile is the northern part of Lake Victoria, the world's 2nd largest fresh water lake. Pictured is the first rapid we rafted down.
As we passed the many children in Uganda (50% of the population is under 14), they would wave and yell "How are youuuuuu?"
Our trip really started when we landed on a grass air strip in Kasese.
Not all those who wander are lost. But there is an exception to every rule.
"Kata hapa wakati wa dharura," I always say.
Nice product placement for A&K.
They said it was market day, but it looks more like laundry day.
There are five types of bananas in Uganda - eating, cooking, brewing, roasting and multi-use. From what we were told, this person is likely bringing these bananas back to his home.
More than 80% of the population works in agriculture ... tea, coffee, cocoa, bananas, vanilla ...
There are about 30 million people in Uganda. The average annual income is $300.
Uganda is twice the size of Pennsylvania and is bordered by Kenya, Sudan, Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda and Tanzania. The majority of the roads we traveled on were dirt (or mud in the rain) and quite bumpy.
We had a bet on the first animal we'd see. Turns out it was a dog. At Ndali lodge, this one was our guide on a hike around the crater lake. Oh yeah, Cindy made me say that she won the bet.
Our private suite at Ndali lodge. The hot water heater (that smoking thing) was wood fired and our hot water had a pleasant smokey aroma.
Ndali Lodge sat on the edge of Lake Nyinambuga in the Bunyaruguru crater lakes region in western Uganda. These lakes were formed by ancient volcanos.
Roughing it? More lemon grass chai tea, please.
I switched to Geico and saved 10% on my Uganda safari.
Stephen and the lodge dogs take us on a guided tour of the local cocoa, coffee, banana and vanilla plantation.
A Vervet monkey spies down upon us.
Due to lack of bees, the vanilla at this plantation is hand pollinated. The ideal bean is 200 millimeters long. Our vanilla extract comes from the reject pile (those under 140mm).
Our next destination was a short flight to Ishasha in Queen Elizabeth National Park. We saw this lioness about 10 minutes after landing, on our very first game drive.
A Ugandan kob (aka an antelope).
The rare two headed topi.
The park covers 770 square miles and has almost 100 types of mammals and over 600 different birds.
A female kob darts out of the way of our Land Cruiser.
Can anyone hum the chorus to "Baby Elephant Walk"?
Safari paparazzi.
What happens in the wild stays in the wild.
We had armed guards at the camp to protect us from wandering elephants.
We did the majority of our viewing through the open roof of the Land Cruiser.
There are only two populations of lions in the world that climb trees.
Our vehicle was directly between this pride of lions in the big tree ...
... and their three cubs in the fallen tree.
Where did those three cubs wander off to?
Mom?
Lions primarily climb trees to get out of the heat and to avoid flies.
The real "Lion King."
In the jungle, the mighty jungle, the lion sleeps tonight. Wimoweh, O-wimoweh, O-wimoweh, ...
Seeing that we aren't going anywhere, the lions become more concerned about their cubs.
What a beautiful animal ...
... but don't upset her.
We didn't need the ranger to tell us to get down after that growl.
If you haven't figured it out by now, you can click on the photo to see a super-large version.
The lions tend to hang out in big fig trees.
The family rests after being reunited.
Sunset overlooking the river beside our camp. Cindy swears she heard hippos sloshing by that night.
Early morning is one of the best times to see the wildlife.
"Cindy, the photos come out better when there are animals in them."
Sunrise near the equator.
We came across a small herd of elephants having breakfast.
You can see how they got the reputation for being destructive feeders ...
... they knock down a tree and proceed to dismantle it branch by branch ...
... breaking the wood like a toothpick with their trunks.
What lives up to 70 years, weighs up to 10,000 pounds and poops 80 pounds per day?
On this trip, we also saw chimps, hyenas, warthogs (the real kind, Greg) and baboons.
The little baboons like to hitch a ride on the backs of their mothers.
The park ranger walked us down to an overlook where we could safely view some hippos.
We saw over 40 hippos in the river.
A "raft" of hippos huddles together, often bumping each other and making a submerged hippo come up for air.
During the day, hippos spend most their time in the water. They leave the river at night to eat.
Whatever you do, don't fall in ...
... because more Ugandan's die by hippo attack at water's edge than any other animal attack.
A hippo patrols the border river between the Congo and Uganda.
Baby hippos swim the moment they are born (because they are born underwater).
Hippos have a distinctive grumble which we later heard at our riverside camp.
The male black-headed weaver is responsible for building these distinctive nests. If the female thinks the construction is poor, she snips off the nest and it falls to the ground.
Outside our tent in the Ishasha Wilderness Camp.
Don't even get me started!
One of the many species of lizards we saw in the camp.
Look, up in the tree ...
We stumbled across a leopard in a tree, a one in a hundred chance.
Leopoards only need to hunt 25 to 30 times a year. They store their kills in the tree to feed off of for days. No kill in sight, so maybe she'll go on the prowl soon.
After two hours on leopard watch, A&K brought out wine and beer for an impromptu "Leopard Lounge at Dusk."
During our respite from leopard watch, the driver we left behind to watch for movement radioed back "It's yawning."
At dusk, she starts moving on.
We can't follow because its 7pm and we have to return to camp.
A black headed weaver takes a break from nest building.
A beautiful end to a great day of hippos, leopards and more!
A water buffalo watches as we begin our journey to the Gorilla Camp.
The male kob have hollow horns, not antlers. They never lose them, except in battle.
Distinctive black patches appear on the face, upper forelegs, hips and thighs of the topi.
Home on the range. Kob and topi are to Uganda what deer and elk are to Colorado.
Doug tosses a stone from Uganda to Congo, hoping to avoid an international incident.
Our park ranger crosses a natural bridge to Congo. We chose not to follow, not having proper visas.
On our way out of Queen Elizabeth park, we visit the hippos one more time and pose for our holiday card photo.
The name hippopotamus means "river horse."
Our trip-mates, Craig and Debbie, brought a Polaroid camera, which enthralled the students at a local private school.
These Polaroids were likely some of the first photographs these children had ever seen of themselves.
Most children only go to primary school. This school was private and cost $5 per three months, a price most Ugandans can't afford. We interrupted a test. Some of the questions are seen below.
The children were very curious about the "Muzungu" or "white people".
The average woman has seven children. Unfortunately, 15% of children die before the age of 5.
The Impenetrable Forest, where the Gorilla Forest Camp is situated, is also known as "Place of Darkness." It spans 127 square miles.
The most popular beer in southern Uganda is the Nile Special, produced and distributed from Jinja, the source of the Nile.
Our first trek was up this steep mountain to visit the H gorilla group. We would go from 5000 to 7000 feet in altitude.
After a two and a half hour hike, we finally came across the Habinyanja group.
We saw about 8 gorillas out of 22 in the group. There are 340 mountain gorillas in Uganda, 720 in the entire world.
It takes two years to habituate a gorilla group to accept human observation. It takes two more years for them to learn how to perform for the camera.
Gorillas can be identified by nose prints, unique to each individual.
We were allowed to get within 15-20 feet of them, but we could only stay for one hour.
This is Rwansigazi, the dominant silverback of the Habinyanja group.
Never look a silverback directly in the eye - it is a sign of aggression.
Cindy ... don't move! There's a gorilla behind you!
A gorilla's arms are longer than its legs.
Males reach 5-6 feet in height, with an arm span of 7 feet 6 inches. They weigh 450-500 lbs.
Our viewing got cut short due to a torrential rain storm. We are in the rain forest, after all.
Our title isn't kidding, we were quite literally in the mist.
Day 2 of our viewing was with the Rushegura group. There is a third group, the Mubare group, which we didn't see.
These gorillas are critically endangered; however, the population has been increasing about 1% a year.
Humans and gorillas are genetically similar enough that gorillas are vulnerable to many of the same diseases as us.
Each gorilla builds a nest from surrounding vegetation to sleep in. They construct a new one each evening.
At times, they came within 5 feet of us. Apparently they didn't read the regulations.
For some reason, Cindy stayed closed to the guys with the AK-47s and machetes.
Their diet is composed primarily of leaves, shoots, stems, bark and roots.
"Oh for Kong's sake, not more tourists!"
Only one third of groups contain more than one adult male.
The dominant silverback is the center of attention during rest ...
... the younger gorillas stay close to him and include him in their games.
The R group has about 15 gorillas.
Males usually weigh twice as much as females.
The gorillas were very watchful of us Muzungus as we changed position.
You have to wonder what they are thinking.
Gorillas have adapted to life on the ground more than any other non-human primate.
They tumble effortlessly over the vines we struggle to cross.
Someday, baby, we'll leave this jungle.
Strike a pose.
Adult males can eat up to 75 lbs of vegatation a day, while a female can eat as much as 40 lbs.
I think I ate too much.
The mountain gorilla has longer and darker hair than other species, enabling it to live at higher altitudes.
How do you think the silverback got its name?
Of all animals, a gorilla's feet most resemble a human's.
This little one shows off, making sure we are are paying attention.
"When you realize the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate more on the preservation of the future." -- Dian Fossey